For a lot of men, the first “serious” wardrobe purchase is a black suit. It feels safe, formal, and versatile—something you can wear to almost anything.
But according to Vancouver-based stylist Hayley Kelly of Suit Illustrated, that’s one of the most common mistakes clients make before working with her.
In this Short, she explains why a black suit shouldn’t be part of your “basic three” suits—and why options like midnight blue and navy are far more flattering and useful.
The Problem With Making a Black Suit One of Your First Three
Hayley sums up a big pattern she sees with new clients: “A common mistake that I see a lot of my clients will make before working with me is they’ll buy a black suit and think it’s part of their basic three suits.”
On paper, black sounds like the smartest, most versatile color. In reality, it often isn’t the best choice for everyday life, modern workplaces, or social events.
Most men are better served by building a core suit rotation around:
• Navy or midnight blue
• Charcoal or mid-grey
• A second navy/blue in a different tone or texture
Black, as Hayley explains, should come later, once those bases are covered.
What Black Signals: Unmemorable and Unapproachable
Hayley references insights from a psychology course on shopping and fashion: “Black represents unmemorable, unapproachable.”
In practice, that can mean:
• You blend into the background instead of standing out in a good way
• You may appear more distant or severe than you intend
• In softer or more social settings, black can feel too stark or formal
This doesn’t mean black is “bad”—it means it has a very specific mood. If you only own one or two suits and they’re black, your style options are heavily limited.
When You Actually Need a Black Suit
“You really only need it for funerals and a specific black-tie event.”
So black suits and tuxedos are still relevant for:
• Funerals and memorials
• Very traditional black-tie events where the dress code specifically calls for black
• Occasions where a highly formal, somber, or minimal look is appropriate
Midnight Blue and Navy: Smarter Alternatives to Black
Even for many black-tie events: “A lot of black-tie events nowadays you can wear a midnight blue or a navy blue … to come across as more approachable.”
Why midnight blue/navy works so well:
• In evening lighting, midnight blue can look richer and deeper than black
• Formal and elegant, but with a softer edge
• Transitions easily from business to social settings
What Your First Three Suits Should Be
1) Navy or Midnight Blue Suit
2) Charcoal or Mid-Grey Suit
3) Second Navy/Blue or a subtle patterned grey
Only after this foundation is in place does it usually make sense to add a black suit or tuxedo.
Need Help Planning Your Suit Rotation?
Explore styling services like wardrobe makeovers and personal shopping at Suitillustrated.com